How do I do scenery? |
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How do I model rocks? |
One of the big advantages of the PWMRC is the ready availability of help for building your layout. Recently, Bob S. mentioned he was going to start building scenery and Eric N. and Jim C. dropped by to assist. The pictures and text take you through a step-by-step building of some rocks on the RDS RR. |
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The scenery work is being done on a large sweeping corner. The
lower tracks are covered by wide masking tape to keep any plaster from
getting in the rails. |
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Bob has already put down a layer of plaster cloth to provide the contour desired along the sweeping curve. Click on the picture and you can see the structure of the plaster cloth and how it meets the upper track and the lower level. You can do this step with plaster-soaked paper towels or several other methods. |
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Wearing inexpensive vinyl gloves, we're applied a medium thick coat of thick, wet plaster. Regular, inexpensive plaster, not the fancy, expensive stuff...we're going to cover it up anyway. The plaster has a small quantity of black tempera power added to the mix to make it a dark gray. |
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With the color in the plaster, the inevitable nicks will be barely noticeable. As the thick plaster dries, we drag a utility knife across the drying plaster. Keep dragging the utility knife through the plaster until it's dry. If you're working a large area, you'll have to move quickly . Remember, it's MUCH easier to work the plaster when it's still a bit wet than after it's dried. |
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case we've made sedimentary rocks (layered), so your dragging marks should
be generally parallel. Be sure to include some vertical carving,
which simulates the natural erosion of water and the elements. For
other types of rocks, carve appropriately.
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Here's a photo of where we ran out of a batch of plaster mix. This shows the clear difference between the white plaster cloth and the gray plaster that's been applied. We mixed up more plaster and continued on. A bonus of the carving process is the bits of plaster that fall off, just as in nature. |
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After you've covered the area you've chosen, you may need to go back and apply some 'patches'. In this photo, you can see we've applied some additional plaster mix on the extreme right of the photo. The 'patch' is slightly lighter in color. Don't worry about matching the plaster color...the final step is the great equalizer...the magic fluid. |
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Here's a close-up photo of part of the finished area. We've applied the 'finishing touch'...the magic fluid. Notice how all the white spots that were poking through are gone? Many modelers use India ink diluted with alcohol, which works very well. I found a water-soluble India ink which I dilute with water and spray liberally. As you spray on the magic fluid, watch how it runs down the carvings you made...just like in nature. |
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That's all there is to it. From a plain base to rocks in about one and a half hours. In that time, we did about 12 feet of scenery about six inches high. It's goes fast and it's easier than you think. Give it a try. |
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